Huanyang Inverter VFD NC Studio Settings

I have been putting up non vacuum stuff up here for the last few posts because I have nowhere else to put them! The vacuum system is in stasis at the moment as other more daytoday things has been taking up my time. So my apologies to you high vacuumers out there.

This post is motivated by a day and a half of frustration which finally got sorted through much googling, testing, reading and rereading and logic-ing out. My cnc machine is now armed and fully operational! I have no doubt that there are others in the same position as I was yesterday...

Be warned: I am not an engineer and don't really know what I'm talking about here, so use this info at your own risk!

How I learned to love my new Huanyang VFD spindle for NC Studio. This post is just about getting NC Studio talking to the VFD, not motor settings. There are other good tuts out there on that bit.
I'll assume you've done a bit of work on this already and get right into the nitty gritty.


Please read it carefully, every step is important.

**some changes you make may need the VFD to be restarted, it seems...**

**with NC Studio we are dealing with '4-speed external control'. You don't really get the values in your gcode. boooo!**

Speed1 being stopped/no rotation. Defined by PD003/PD011(see below)
Speed2 definded by PD0086
Speed3 definded by PD0087
Speed4 defined by PD0088

To begin!
0.PD000 set to 0.  Allows changes to happen in the settings...

1. PD013 set to 8. Factory reset (Thus may not be nessasary if you have a matching VFD and spindle.)

2. PD001 set to 1. This selects external terminal/multi-input as the signal input.(this over rides PD002[1] setting I assume)

3. PD003,PD004,PD005 ... this is motor specific settings I'm not covering here.

4. PD011 set to 0. Now this is the interesting one. This is going to supersceed PD003 that you would think is the defined speed for Speed1.

But there is an assumption that as long as [FOR]ward is enabled (which it is, because its permanently tied low, isn't it?)the motor is turning and doing something and so would burn out if the setting is too low. But in GCode the spindle is turned on by its speed setting ie: S18000 or what ever...so it's a cheat we programme into the VFD firmware to turn the spindle off with a zero speed setting.
(granted there is an Mcode for spindle on but with NC studio you just have 4 speed options on 3 pins. 000 being off, 100 being low, 010 being...etc.)

PD044 is set to 02. Sets FOR connector to enable forward rotation when taken low.
PD047 is set to 22.  Sets SPH connector to enable setting in PD0088 when taken high.
PD048 is set to 24. Sets SPM connector to enable setting in PD0087 when taken high
PD049 is set to 23. Sets SPL connector to enable setting in PD0086 when taken high

PD080 set to 2. That's the magic setting.

This allows signal from NS Studio to select the three(4) settings for speeds you will define below...
We've already looked at the PD003/PD011 issue so that is Speed1 ie: 0Hz
PD0086 is set to 133 for 8000rpm
PD0087 is set to 300 for 18000 rpm
PD088 is set to 400 for 24000rpm
I may change these settings depending how they work in practice.


If I'm wrong with what I've done here please let me know. If this has been a help please comment. If I made some typos please let me know.

ER11 drag engraver

This post is a little off topic so I'm sorry about that. It will be relevant to somebody I suppose.

spring loaded ER11 diamond drag engraver

Above is a spring loaded diamond drag engraver. It's 3mm with a 120 degree angle tip. The issue with it is it needs to be spring loaded to allow for uneven surfaces, but there is very little space to build a mechanism inside an ER11 size collet. The commercial ones work externally to the collet. My thinking was if it is in the collet it would be more ridged and more accurate.

Drag engraver apart

So here it is taken apart. An ER11 collet with a 7mm diameter.
A hard brass pipe(Albion Alloys, metric K +S!)
Polished 6mm steel shaft from an inkjet printer with a spring, I'm not sure where that came from!
I chopped the steel shaft with a hacksaw and stuck it in the lathe. I wrapped the shaft in masking tape to protect it from the jaws of the lathe, then drilled the centre to receive the diamond tip bit and trimmed the other end to take the spring. The spring is squeezed on. This is important for a couple of reasons. It ends up >6mm diameter therefor holding the shaft into the brass tube and so the collet.
That's morealess it. The extra lug at the end is just because I cut the main body of the shaft too short. The grey crap is PTFE/graphite dry lube.
To use...(engineers close your ears), I put it onto the spindle as usual then tighten the nut until the collet pinches the brass tube enough to stop the shaft moving, then loosen the nut a smidge. It should return when pushed in. So I'm using the collet slightly loose...

The State of Matter as it stands.

For SEO your supposed to add a caption! DIY Metalization.

A very quick update...this is the state of the system now. The steel belljar is working well. Sight glasses seems to be sealed ok too. After buying a very nicely priced butterfly valve.( Thanks to JF and his wife for the delivery!) I can now cut off the diffstack from the belljar. I got down to below the range of the pirani gauge. Oh yes, I'm sorry I really coped out. I bought a diff pump on Ebay...Interestingly the urge to get the DIY one is still strong in my mind. I do intend to revisit it in the near future. If only to get some closure!

Belljar Hoist Mount

 The jar is heavy so I will put it on a pulley and hoist eventually.

Vacuum Chamber Interior

And the interior..stainless steel M10 threaded bars tapped into the base plate.(gas escape grooves cut accross the threads that are in the tapped holes. To try and minimize virtual leaks.). A rolled aluminium ring 5x25mm. Soldered at the join (my first aluminium soldering. Very possible. Probably not a good idea for sealing... Must fly!